Jerusalem

September 2, 2022

It was another hot day week in Jerusalem reaching 96 (and 111 in Tiberias)! Jim didn’t mind. Deanne did... There are plenty of things to see and do even in the heat. Jim parked at the YMCA, took a walk over to the Montefiore Windmill, the site of the first neighborhood built outside the Old City walls (in 1860), although there wasn’t enough wind to power the windmill. He had found a copy of Hatikva, the Israeli national anthem, and played that for the first time on the carillon. Fadi Suidan, the CEO at the YMCA, came up to the carillon while he was playing and told him in the kindest way that playing the Israeli national anthem in public is problematic because it really represents Israeli interests to the exclusion of Palestinian interests. Guess he won’t play that again.

He then walked to the trendy Ben Yehuda neighborhood in search of—are you ready?—a fish taco! He had heard there was a taqueria called Tacos Luis, operated by a guy from Oaxaca and had to find this, and he did! It’s a kosher taqueria, so no pork—the taco al pastor is actually turkey. But the tempura cod in a corn tortilla was as good as any fish taco he has had anywhere. Guess he'll be back!

Two walks (in the heat) in one day. First with the Barkers—down the Mt. of Olives to visit Mary’s Tomb and the Grotto of Gethsemane. There are actually three different Gethsemane sites adjacent to each other—a cave-like Gethsemane (where there was a service in progress), the Gethsemane with the ancient, gnarled olive trees (our favorite—there is always has a very special feeling about it), and another garden which is private and usually not open.

Mary's Tomb

Next door is the Church of the Agony where there was a mass in progress and someone was playing the organ. In the afternoon Jim took off for another adventure in the Old City. After his falafel (of course), he went to the Austrian Hospice (an expensive hostel now) where they have a small Rieger organ in the chapel loft. The young Austrian desk clerks wouldn’t give him the keys, even though he spoke to them in his best Salzburg dialect.

Austrian Hospice Chapel

Then Jim wandered the Old City for 3 miles. He rediscovered the Coptic Orthodox Church near Station of the Cross No. 9, and went into every part of the Church of the Holy Sepulcher that he could. It’s immense, and has side chapels that are controlled by various sects, crypts, and much more. Maybe the heat discouraged a lot of visitors as it wasn’t very crowded.

the Edicule

We went on a guided walk with Eric Huntsman through the Old City on Tuesday so we’d know where to take our small student groups on Friday. Enjoyed being with all the faculty and service couples. It was hot, but always interesting. At 2 p.m. we had a meeting with all the couples and Eran Hayet (Center director) for our pre-semester orientation information. We’re ready to start!

We went with the Barkers to the Bible Lands Museum, which is next to the Israel Museums. This is another first-class museum with priceless artifacts related to Old Testament times. It’s not so big as to overwhelm, and very rewarding.

date-shaped bottles

family group

gold sword hilts

Paul Barker, Deanne and Jim went on a dry-run walk through the Old City to prepare for the student tour. At 8 a.m. the place is pretty well deserted! Easy to walk through, but not as much fun! Got some good pictures, did a little shopping at Shaban’s, took the bus each way.

A great timeline showing the history of Jerusalem

Then the fun began--the fall student group arrived! So great to have 94 new students in the place. So much energy. We loved the last group, and it looks like this will be another good group.

There was an informational meeting in the Forum. Got a little long, and kids were nodding off, jetlagged, no surprise. Following that we did tours of the Center for the new arrivals. At 5 we met with the committee chairs of the various committees for this semester, and then at 5:30 met with the committee we’re advising, the “Memories” (they do a fun presentation at the end of the semester).

Tareck - Head of Security

Tawfic - Ass't Director

Friday, we left at 8 a.m. with a group of 8 eager students for our walk through the Old City. It was so much fun to share the Old City with people who were seeing it for the first time! A dream come true for them. Jim gave them running commentary—channeling his brother, Jack—too much to say in too little time. Down through Arab country, through Damascus Gate, into the bustle of the Muslim Quarter, view from the Austrian Hospice, a walk up part of the Via Dolorosa, a brief tour through Church of the Holy Sepulcher, down lanes in the Christian Quarter, through the Cardo, to Hurva Synagogue and Square, out Zion Gate, a stop at the Hidden Gate, and ending at Jaffa Gate with a few moments for shopping and snacks. The students were all bug-eyed. Took vans back to the Center. Pizza lunch, and it was good!