August 26, 2022

We went to the Israel Museum with Barkers on Sunday.  We’d done the archaeology part before, so we started in the Jewish Art and Life.  They had four reconstructed synagogues (from Bavaria, Venice, Surinam, and India) and many wonderful artifacts of Jewish religious life.  We zipped through the fabulous art galleries—we’ll have to return to finish those.  Stopped for falafel by Damascus Gate, and then to Baladi’s for groceries. Grocery shopping is always an adventure and a lot of luck is involved in finding what you need and want.

Venice

India

 Surinam

On Tuesday another wonderful afternoon in the Old City.  First we walked through Teddy Park and saw a whole bunch of Israeli kids playing in the water fountains that shoot up. Nice on a hot day!  Then we surprised Rabbi Matt Berkowitz by dropping in at his studio in the Artists’ Colony just below Jaffa Gate, where he was at work.  He showed us some of his wonderful paintings and publications and also introduced us to David Moss (camera shy), whom Rabbi Matt described as “the Walt Disney of Israeli artists,” for his many and famous paintings and other artistic creations.  We enjoyed our visit with him in his studio as well.  

                     

                             His 27 Illuminations on the Exodus

We then entered the Jaffa gate, intending to go to the Citadel (Tower of David), but instead visited the Anglican Christ Church on a hunt for information for the pipe organ that used to be there.  No one had information about that, but Jim was shown the little harmonium from England and played a hymn on it.  

           

Then we had a great walk through the Christian Quarter, doing a little shopping, but mostly looking, chatting with merchants and people-watching. We never tire of walking through these exotic corridors. Everything and everyone here is photogenic. 

 

Shaaban, our friendly shopkeeper

                                 Modern menorahs

We also walked past the little door to the courtyard of the Greek Orthodox Church of St. John the Baptist that we had never found open.  This time by luck it was open and we were able to spend a few minutes in the church before a service was to begin.  What a gorgeous, elegant, ornate little church.  This is now one of our favorite churches in Jerusalem.

                  

         

Jim walked over to the Church of Ascension again and talked to the abbess of the monastery who very kindly gave him the (giant) key to the tower, which was built so pilgrims could see the River Jordan from afar.  The 360-degree views from the top of this tower are the most spectacular he had seen yet.  The guidebooks mention an 8-ton bell which was hauled over 40 miles from Jaffa by mostly female pilgrims, but they don't talk about the rest of the bells.  Jim was able to see the bells, but not play them—although he honestly couldn’t figure out from the maze of cables strung around the belfry how it could be played.  The clapper alone on that largest bell must weigh a ton! 

In the afternoon Jim took a drive to Mea Shearim, the ultra-orthodox Jewish neighborhood not far from the Old City. It was founded in the late 19^th century for Lithuanian and Polish Jews. All the guidebooks say that they don’t appreciate tourists.  Jim just drove through some of the streets but never got out of the car (there was no parking anyway).  It was clear that he would have stood out like a very sore thumb in that neighborhood where all the men were wearing black clothes and hats. (No pictures for this adventure.)

Took the bus with Barkers to Damascus Gate and then walked to Notre Dame de Jerusalem where we took a look in the Shroud Museum. Also said hello to Fr. Cristobal, the organist there.  Then across the road to New Gate where we met up with Yakoub, the organist at St. Savior’s.  He let Jim play the Rieger organ.  Interesting guy, not as friendly as the others we've met, but he did say they have an organ festival, and maybe he’d contact Jim?  We’ll see.  

We walked back down the hill to Damascus Gate and had falafel and passion fruit slush. Next, down to the Rockefeller Museum.  Very 1930’s but sort of neat that way.  Older, dustier, mustier collection, a lot of treasures.  The courtyard was the best, with its garden and fountains. 

                               

 Tilework!!

        You can see the Jerusalem Center on the hill.

We and the Barkers walked over to the Dome of the Ascension, now a mosque, and is another traditional site of Jesus’s ascension.  There is even a stone with a footprint in it.  The acoustics are amazing for such a small chapel. We enjoyed singing some hymns.

                               

And one more attempt to go up in the bell tower at the Russian Orthodox Church of Ascension. Let's just say that the nuns were not having a good day. They were not handing over the key. We did finally see the stone where Mary is said to have stood and watched Christ ascend to heaven. One side of the stone is located outside the chapel, the other inside.

                   

                                    

This will be a busy week. The next semester of students arrive on Wednesday. There will be a lot more energy in the Center for sure! The 2022-2023 concert series officially opens on September 4 and the tours begin September 7! We are ready.