HOLY WEEK in JERUSALEM

It’s an exciting time to be here! Despite some disturbing recent unrest, Israel’s identity as “The Holy Land” currently seems magnified and enhanced given the timing this year of three of the most sacred and currently overlapping observances of Judaism, Christianity, and Islam. While Passover and Easter celebrations often coincide, Ramadan—also using the lunar calendar (but added upon with a complicated Islamic scheduling formula) enters the spring confluence of religious traditions only once about every 33 years. There have been so many celebrations, processions, outings, walks, worship moments, and food challenges (no unleavened bread in the Jewish markets, so no pita bread!). But it has been a beautiful spring time to be in Jerusalem.

Our friends Peter and Debra Bendheim from Newport Beach were in Jerusalem for two days, and we enjoyed touring them around.  Played the carillon, visited the Herod Family tombs, then down to St. Andrew’s Presbyterian Church where we got in on the end of their 10 a.m. service, and we met the Rev Dr. Stewart Gillan who is a Scot from Nova Scotia. Saw the ancient tombs right below St. Andrew’s.  Walked past Montefiore Windmill, back to the Center for lunch, and then had a Palm Sunday Devotional. Celebratory hymns, the Primary kids sang, scriptures and psalms.  Then we started our long walk, waving our palm fronds, to the Franciscan Church in Bethphage, joining people from all over the world--Africa, Philippines, Europe, you name it, in a noisy procession that slowly snaked its way down to the Garden of Gethsemane and ultimately to Lions’ Gate and the Via Dolorosa.  It was pretty warm, but everyone was excited.  The students loved it.  We and the Bendheims took the shortcut down the steep street to Garden of Gethsemane and were there to see the procession arrive.  The bells at Gethsemane were clanging, bands were playing, people singing.  What a start to Holy Week!  We walked back through Orson Hyde Garden.  Went to our “Chicken Lickin’” restaurant in Wadi al Joz for dinner.  Bendheims wanted shawarma, and they got it!  

Peter Bendheim, "Jesus," Debra Bendheim, Jim

Jo Ann Seely

For the second day with the Bendheims we showed them the British War Cemetery; played the organ at Augusta Victoria and climbed the tower; then to Jaffa Gate.  We had a fun short visit with Santa of the Ho-Ho-Holy Land; Latin Patriarchate church; Tower of David; David Street, Udi the artist; Cardo; shawarma at a very busy place near Hurva Square; Western Wall; Muslim Quarter; Cotton Merchants’ Street; Little Western Wall; Via Dolorosa; Coptic Christian Churches; and Church of the Holy Sepulcher. Jim got his hair cut at little Arab barber shop around the corner from Church of the Redeemer. 10 minutes, $10--no knife this time!  Omar’s shop, George’s shop, back to Mamilla, dropped Bendheims off at their hotel. What a great day!

Tower of David

View from the Tower of David

Fresh pomegranate-orange-carrot juice in the market

Omar's shop

Jim went over to Maison d’Abraham, a Catholic hotel and spiritual retreat, to meet with Bernard Thibaud, the director there.  He’s from Paris.  He showed Jim all around their complex with great views to the south side of the Old City and Mount of Olives and the big Jewish settlement nearby.

Bernard Thibaud

We went with Barkers and Roses to the Maundy Thursday foot-washing mass at Notre Dame of Jerusalem. We saw Fr. Cristobal there, then got pictures by the "I Heart JLM" near Jaffa Gate.  At 9:00 pm we had a service of scripture and hymns at the Center that Eric Huntsman had put together.  After that the students walked down to Gethsemane and Jim went with them through the carnival of Ramadan on our back street, throngs at Gethsemane, buses, police, noise. This was surprisingly not a very solemn occasion. We lit our candles and many walked across Kidron Valley and up the stairs to St. Peter in Gallicantu.  Jim went back into the Church of the Agony and Garden of Gethsemane by night, beautifully lighted. 

Family night out

Eric Huntsman at the Maundy Thursday devotional

"Jesus" again (he's really an American who walks around the Old City)

Southeast corner of the Old City, with candlelight procession up the hill

Jim and Paul went to the Good Friday procession at 10:00 am at the Church of St. Savior in the Christian Quarter.  It was all in Arabic and very slow moving. They decided to go to the Church of the Holy Sepulcher, but it was blocked off.  But they can say they were in the Old City on Good Friday and tried to get to a Golgotha.

Holy Saturday:  We had our Easter church service at 10:30.  Jim played a half hour prelude. Children sang “When He Comes Again.” Branch choir sang “Behold the Wounds in Jesus’ Hands.”  Student choir sang “Come See the Place Where Jesus Prayed."  Nice Easter service, even if it was on our regular Saturday schedule.  Here we are all celebrating while the rest of the Christian world is still waiting for the resurrection. We had our big Easter Vigil concert at 7:00 pm on Saturday evening.  Deanne had done a ton of work to arrange all the details, print music, rehearse, conduct the music, etc. So well planned and executed.  Jim played organ and piano for it all.  It reminded us of a St. Mark’s Easter morning service with all the different music.

We went to the Garden Tomb for the 9:00 am service on Easter Sunday.  We knew it would be an “evangelical” event (i.e., with a rock/praise band), but were curious and wanted to be able to say that we’d gone to the Garden Tomb on Easter.  When we arrived with the throngs at the Garden Tomb, we said “Happy Easter” to the greeter, and he shot back with a big smile, “Why are you all here?  Don’t you know he’s not here!”  We sat in one of the side meditation areas where they had loudspeakers and TV monitors so we could see the program being broadcast from the tomb. There were friendly and excited people from all over the world.  We were seated by a woman from Fresno who is now a missionary with her South African husband in Mozambique (and speaks Portuguese), and also by Max, a German guy now living in Holland.  We had delightful conversations with them and exchanged Easter greetings.  The music was loud and very rock/Christian music that obviously many of the people attending knew.  As always we appreciated the intensity of their worship (even though not our style), and was reminded that this is the way so many contemporary Christians prefer their worship, as opposed to classical sacred music and reverent tones.  Can’t fault them.  The guest speaker was Nicky Gumbel, a very charismatic British preacher and former atheist. He was a fine speaker, very positive, and said that that he had examined all the evidence for the resurrection and believe it.  He said that Mary Magdalene didn’t recognize Jesus at first, but then she did.  He said that there was a reason that each of us was there this morning, and maybe there are some who don’t recognize him either, and if we don’t already recognize Jesus, this would be an ideal time to do so.  He also said that the year 2033 will be the 2000^th anniversary of the resurrection of Christ, and wouldn’t it be wonderful if everyone on the planet could have received the gospel message by then. He encouraged all to work towards that goal.  It was a different Easter service than we had ever attended, but we enjoyed the experience.  

Mica, who lives in Mozambique, and Max, from Germany

Mary Ellen and Mark Rosen

In the afternoon, Jim played Easter music on the YMCA carillon. Several students joined us, as well as the Rosens and Barkers. The "old folks" decided to do the YMCA pose this time!

Sadly only two more weeks with this group of students. It's been a wonderful semester.