Merry Christmas! We had an extraordinary week with Nicholas, Jameson, and Erika here in Jerusalem. What wonderful gifts we received for Christmas. Most (all!) of our journey this week was posted on Facebook but here is the condensed version. Each day was filled with walking, laughing, eating, and seeing Israel from the Galilee to the Dead Sea. Despite some jet lag and Nicholas getting a cold, the trio was always ready to go. 

Here is a link to a big (!) album of pictures (more than posted on Facebook):  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mk7ZfxTzousMcM4T9     Christmas in the Holy Land

Day 1 included: the Church of Bethphage, Pater Noster, Mt. of Olives Seven Arches lookout for a camel ride, Dominus Flevit (what a view!), Tomb of the Prophets, Ascension Café for the first shawarma of the trip, Garden of Gethsemane, Absalom's Pillar and Hezekiah's tomb, Church of the Agony/All Nations, and the walk back to the Center through the Orson Hyde Park. The weather was spectacular. Life is good!

Day 2: First stop was Qumran, home of the Dead Sea scrolls. We were the only ones there unlike two weeks ago when it was packed. Then En Gedi (a lovely oasis and spring). It must have been school field trip day as there were hundreds of young teenagers visiting with us. Next stop, Masada! Such a majestic place. After exploring the ruins, Jim, Erika, Jameson, and Nicholas walked down the Snake Path. The last stop was the Dead Sea for a quick dip and float in the salty water. The 90-minute ride home was very quiet. Everyone was sound asleep! We enjoyed a nice home cooked family dinner. First time in 6 months!

Day 3: We were so fortunate to visit the the al-Haram al-Sharif or the Al-Aqsa Compound (Temple Mount) this morning. It is such a magnificent site. We returned to Ascension Café for another shawarma lunch, and then off to the Old City. We began at the art studio of friend Rabbi Matt Berkowitz who is showing an interactive exhibit for Hanukkah. Up the street to Jaffa Gate. Santa was not home so we went on to visit our favorite little shops (of course), through the Christian Quarter to Church of the Holy Sepulcher and on to the Jewish Quarter and the Western Wall. On our way back, we wandered through the Cardo and met Udi Merioz who has a wonderful little art shop there. He was so kind and freely shared some of his artwork with us.

Day 4: Another busy day. we clocked more than 16,000 steps! Early morning walk to the Tomb of the Virgin Mary where a service was in progress with wonderful Armenian orthodox chanting; Gethsemane Grotto; Eastern Gate; Arab cemetery; through Lions' Gate to the Via Dolorosa; the birthplace of St. Mary; Pools of Bethesda; Churches of the Flagellation and Condemnation; Behold the Man Arch; and the Prison of Christ. We followed many of the Stations of the Cross and ended at Jaffa Gate. But the day continued on the Ramparts Walk, on top of the outer walls of the Old City. We stopped for falafel wraps near the Damascus Gate. Our last stop together was the Garden Tomb. We had the place virtually to ourselves, and had a wonderfully peaceful visit there. We split the group up at that point. Nicholas and Jim went to the Rockefeller Museum, and I took Jameson and Erika to Jimmy's Bazaar. Everyone was happy!

Day 5: 260 miles driving to Galilee and back (thanks, Jim). Lots of great places to visit. Started the morning early heading west to Jericho and a visit to the traditional Jordan River site of the baptism of Jesus. Then we headed north towards Galilee. We stopped at the magnificent Roman ruins at Beit She'an. It was a little cold and windy but there was no one there except for the two LDS families we ran into (the Peck family from Rexburg whom our children knew and our Branch President Jon Farrell and family)! Jim and I had not been to the west side of the Galilee for 25 years. Things have changed. Tiberias is a huge city (we just drove through)! Magdala (the hometown of Mary Magdalene) was beautiful, on the shore of the Sea of Galilee, and the Duc in Altum chapel had four side-chapels with beautiful New Testament mosaic depictions. Capernaum (the hometown of Jesus and Peter) is also right on the water with a modern chapel and spectacular view of the Sea of Galilee. The Mt. of Beatitudes, where tradition says Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount, again was not what we remembered. The gardens are beautifully designed and there are many more outside worship areas. Everything in the north was green and lush.

Day 6: Christmas Eve day started with our Sabbath worship being streamed between the Jerusalem and the Bethlehem Branches. Good music and good messages. Jim and Nicholas played a rousing piano-organ duet of "Joy to the World." After church, we joined the Huntsmans and the Judds on an excursion to Bethlehem. We took a bus to the checkpoint and crossed over to the West Bank and Bethlehem. It was about a two-mile walk to Manger Square through some pretty rough parts of Bethlehem. We were able to see the lively procession to Manger Square, including fireworks and bands with bagpipes and drums. We were not alone! Everyone was happy and friendly. The rain didn't deter anyone. After the festivities and visiting the Church of the Nativity, Milk Grotto, and the Church of St. Catherine, we walked back to the checkpoint to return to Jerusalem. Eric Huntsman had arranged a side trip to a traditional shepherds' field. We read from Luke and sang appropriate Christmas carols: "O Little Town of Bethlehem," "While Shepherds Watched Their Flocks," and "Angels We Have Heard on High." No better way to bring Christmas into our home and hearts!

Day 7: Christmas in Jerusalem! Perhaps a once in a lifetime experience to be here together on this special day. We chose to keep it pretty quiet and only ventured out for a few things. First, a carillon concert at the YMCA tower. We invited some of the Branch members so there was a full house. Christmas bells were ringing! Then Jameson and Erika wanted to pick up a few things in the Old City so off we went. Between Hannukah and Christmas the holiday traffic was intense. We found a parking spot near New Gate, and luckily there is a narrow lane that connects to Jaffa Gate. What a find! The Old City was packed and lively. We made another stop to visit the studio of Udi Merioz, a well-known artist. He is so captivating. Not only is he a painter, but also a story-teller. After finding our treasures, we headed back to the car. Our new path takes us right by Santa's house and he was home! He kindly welcomed us in (after his very busy night ). And what would Christmas dinner in Jerusalem be other than shawarmas?! One more wrap was the request of the family. Happy to oblige. Sadly, Erika and Jameson left tonight to return to Utah. Nicholas is here for a few more days.

Day 8: In the six months we've lived here, we have never seen it rain as much as it did in the last 24 hours. Rain, wind, lightning, thunder, and power outages. It was pretty remarkable. Everyone promised us winter rain and cooler temperatures, but we were naysayers. Not any more. The rain actually made for a great day to get caught up on home things and relax a bit. Jim and Nicholas braved the storm and went to the Israel Museum for the afternoon.