Merry Christmas! We had an extraordinary week with Nicholas, Jameson, and Erika here in Jerusalem. What wonderful gifts we received for Christmas. Most (all!) of our journey this week was posted on Facebook but here is the condensed version. Each day was filled with walking, laughing, eating, and seeing Israel from the Galilee to the Dead Sea. Despite some jet lag and Nicholas getting a cold, the trio was always ready to go. 

Here is a link to a big (!) album of pictures (more than posted on Facebook):  

https://photos.app.goo.gl/mk7ZfxTzousMcM4T9     Christmas in the Holy Land

Day 1 included: the Church of Bethphage, Pater Noster, Mt. of Olives Seven Arches lookout for a camel ride, Dominus Flevit (what a view!), Tomb of the Prophets, Ascension Café for the first shawarma of the trip, Garden of Gethsemane, Absalom's Pillar and Hezekiah's tomb, Church of the Agony/All Nations, and the walk back to the Center through the Orson Hyde Park. The weather was spectacular. Life is good!

Day 2: First stop was Qumran, home of the Dead Sea scrolls. We were the only ones there unlike two weeks ago when it was packed. Then En Gedi (a lovely oasis and spring). It must have been school field trip day as there were hundreds of young teenagers visiting with us. Next stop, Masada! Such a majestic place. After exploring the ruins, Jim, Erika, Jameson, and Nicholas walked down the Snake Path. The last stop was the Dead Sea for a quick dip and float in the salty water. The 90-minute ride home was very quiet. Everyone was sound asleep! We enjoyed a nice home cooked family dinner. First time in 6 months!

Day 3: We were so fortunate to visit the the al-Haram al-Sharif or the Al-Aqsa Compound (Temple Mount) this morning. It is such a magnificent site. We returned to Ascension Café for another shawarma lunch, and then off to the Old City. We began at the art studio of friend Rabbi Matt Berkowitz who is showing an interactive exhibit for Hanukkah. Up the street to Jaffa Gate. Santa was not home so we went on to visit our favorite little shops (of course), through the Christian Quarter to Church of the Holy Sepulcher and on to the Jewish Quarter and the Western Wall. On our way back, we wandered through the Cardo and met Udi Merioz who has a wonderful little art shop there. He was so kind and freely shared some of his artwork with us.

Day 4: Another busy day. we clocked more than 16,000 steps! Early morning walk to the Tomb of the Virgin Mary where a service was in progress with wonderful Armenian orthodox chanting; Gethsemane Grotto; Eastern Gate; Arab cemetery; through Lions' Gate to the Via Dolorosa; the birthplace of St. Mary; Pools of Bethesda; Churches of the Flagellation and Condemnation; Behold the Man Arch; and the Prison of Christ. We followed many of the Stations of the Cross and ended at Jaffa Gate. But the day continued on the Ramparts Walk, on top of the outer walls of the Old City. We stopped for falafel wraps near the Damascus Gate. Our last stop together was the Garden Tomb. We had the place virtually to ourselves, and had a wonderfully peaceful visit there. We split the group up at that point. Nicholas and Jim went to the Rockefeller Museum, and I took Jameson and Erika to Jimmy's Bazaar. Everyone was happy!

Day 5: 260 miles driving to Galilee and back (thanks, Jim). Lots of great places to visit. Started the morning early heading west to Jericho and a visit to the traditional Jordan River site of the baptism of Jesus. Then we headed north towards Galilee. We stopped at the magnificent Roman ruins at Beit She'an. It was a little cold and windy but there was no one there except for the two LDS families we ran into (the Peck family from Rexburg whom our children knew and our Branch President Jon Farrell and family)! Jim and I had not been to the west side of the Galilee for 25 years. Things have changed. Tiberias is a huge city (we just drove through)! Magdala (the hometown of Mary Magdalene) was beautiful, on the shore of the Sea of Galilee, and the Duc in Altum chapel had four side-chapels with beautiful New Testament mosaic depictions. Capernaum (the hometown of Jesus and Peter) is also right on the water with a modern chapel and spectacular view of the Sea of Galilee. The Mt. of Beatitudes, where tradition says Jesus delivered the Sermon on the Mount, again was not what we remembered. The gardens are beautifully designed and there are many more outside worship areas. Everything in the north was green and lush.

Day 6: Christmas Eve day started with our Sabbath worship being streamed between the Jerusalem and the Bethlehem Branches. Good music and good messages. Jim and Nicholas played a rousing piano-organ duet of "Joy to the World." After church, we joined the Huntsmans and the Judds on an excursion to Bethlehem. We took a bus to the checkpoint and crossed over to the West Bank and Bethlehem. It was about a two-mile walk to Manger Square through some pretty rough parts of Bethlehem. We were able to see the lively procession to Manger Square, including fireworks and bands with bagpipes and drums. We were not alone! Everyone was happy and friendly. The rain didn't deter anyone. After the festivities and visiting the Church of the Nativity, Milk Grotto, and the Church of St. Catherine, we walked back to the checkpoint to return to Jerusalem. Eric Huntsman had arranged a side trip to a traditional shepherds' field. We read from Luke and sang appropriate Christmas carols: "O Little Town of Bethlehem," "While Shepherds Watched Their Flocks," and "Angels We Have Heard on High." No better way to bring Christmas into our home and hearts!

Day 7: Christmas in Jerusalem! Perhaps a once in a lifetime experience to be here together on this special day. We chose to keep it pretty quiet and only ventured out for a few things. First, a carillon concert at the YMCA tower. We invited some of the Branch members so there was a full house. Christmas bells were ringing! Then Jameson and Erika wanted to pick up a few things in the Old City so off we went. Between Hannukah and Christmas the holiday traffic was intense. We found a parking spot near New Gate, and luckily there is a narrow lane that connects to Jaffa Gate. What a find! The Old City was packed and lively. We made another stop to visit the studio of Udi Merioz, a well-known artist. He is so captivating. Not only is he a painter, but also a story-teller. After finding our treasures, we headed back to the car. Our new path takes us right by Santa's house and he was home! He kindly welcomed us in (after his very busy night ). And what would Christmas dinner in Jerusalem be other than shawarmas?! One more wrap was the request of the family. Happy to oblige. Sadly, Erika and Jameson left tonight to return to Utah. Nicholas is here for a few more days.

Day 8: In the six months we've lived here, we have never seen it rain as much as it did in the last 24 hours. Rain, wind, lightning, thunder, and power outages. It was pretty remarkable. Everyone promised us winter rain and cooler temperatures, but we were naysayers. Not any more. The rain actually made for a great day to get caught up on home things and relax a bit. Jim and Nicholas braved the storm and went to the Israel Museum for the afternoon.

We accompanied the students on two of their final field trips, following the footsteps of Jesus in the last days of his mortal life.  The first day, we visited the tomb of Lazarus in Bethany (which is now over the border from Jerusalem in the West Bank) and then to the Church of St. Lazarus.

The largest poinsettias!

Bethany Israelsen from Utah sharing thoughts in Bethany, Israel!

The Mount of Olives, Bethphage, where Jesus started his triumphal entry into Jerusalem

traditional site of where Jesus mounted the donkey

Sam, Eric, and Elaine Huntsman

Church of the Pater Noster (The Lord’s Prayer)

Mallory Menden and Tyler Walters served missions in the Philipines 

Dominus Flevit church (The Lord Wept), shaped like a tear drop

more beautiful mosiac

the GREEN Kidron Valley

We finished at the Orson Hyde Memorial Garden, where we discussed the Olivet discourse. In each place we had instruction from Eric Huntsman and devotionals given by various students, each of them excellent.  Perfect weather, and the hills are green again.  We'd been on this particular itinerary before, but each time it feels like a new experience and each time you learn new things.

The second day, we started at the Garden of Gethsemane with a devotional, then walked through the Kidron Valley, past Absalom's Pillar, along the south wall of the Temple Mount and up the steep hill to the Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu. This is where traditionally Peter denied Jesus and where Jesus was imprisoned. We tried to imagine what it was like for the already spent Jesus to be dragged up here to his trial. Nearby is a stone staircase that dates from the time of Jesus. He may well have walked up those steps. 

Zechariah's tomb

Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu

We continued around to the north wall of the Old City where we had a devotional at the Hidden Gate. This is a possible site of Herod's palace and where Pilate might have presented Jesus to the angry mob (rather than at the Antonia Fortress near Lions' Gate). "Behold the man!" 

Our final stop was the Garden Tomb, a peaceful setting with an empty tomb. We had a devotional and testimony meeting. We sang "He is Risen," and ended by repeating "Christ is risen! He is risen indeed! Alleluia." 

We are so lucky to be living in Jerusalem where we are reminded every single day of these all-important events. 

This was the last night at the Center for this semester's students. The kitchen put on a splendid seafood dinner (non-kosher...).

Director Eran Hayet and Prof Frank Judd

Paella

Finally, there was a "Memories" program with awards, slide shows, videos, and lots of sharing of experiences of the amazing past 15 weeks.

Kahoot!

Superlatives

For the first time since we arrived in June we were able to visit the Temple Mount, the Dome of the Rock, or the al-Haram al-Sharif or al-Aqsa Compound as it is known to Muslims. The reason we have been asked not to go on our own is that there are usually Jewish settler activists on and around the Temple Mount, and BYU doesn't want us being inadvertently identified as being connected with them. That could jeopardize future visits by people from the Center. We went as a smallish group and had an experienced and entertaining local guide, although he went pretty heavy on his Palestinian interpretation of the history of the sites. It was exciting to be there after five months of only seeing it from outside the walls and gates. To enter the mosques, women are required to wear long sleeves and skirts, the hijab, or head scarf. We were very fortunate to be able to go into these sacred buildings, built around the 7th century, because they are not as open now to tourists as they once were, due to terrorist attacks and other security concerns. 

with Emma, Reagan, Julia, Isabella, Mckayla

The Rock!

Beautiful tiles inside and out

It was the last day for the students. We were all very nostalgic as they watched the sun set over Jerusalem for the last time.  

With Charley Davis

We hosted a number of friendly visitors. Especially interesting was Etan, a social worker who deals with schizophrenics and people who come in with "Jerusalem Syndrome," which is a real thing--"an acute psychotic state observed in tourists and pilgrims who visit Jerusalem. The main symptom of this disorder is identification with a character from the Bible and exhibiting behaviors which seems to be typical for this character." Remember the picture we posted of "James" from Michigan who dresses like Jesus and walks around Jerusalem? Well, he was at Jim's concert at Notre Dame de Jerusalem. And it was a very nice concert--people from the parish and from the Jerusalem Center were there. Father Cristobal, the parish priest from Spain, introduced Jim's program of Christmas carol arrangements. This was Jim's first official organ recital in Israel outside of the Center. 

We await the arrival of Nicholas, Jameson, and Erika tomorrow! It will be a very Merry Christmas with them here.

On Monday, we left at 7:30 with the students for this semester's last field trip.  The weather was so much more agreeable than in the heat of the summer.  Deanne and I and Paul and Patty were on the same bus (Frank Judd’s bus).  Qumran, where the Dead Sea scrolls were discovered, is always interesting.  

Expert David Seely lecturing

Cave 4

At Ein Gedi, the oasis, we saw ibexes standing up in trees and eating!  

Look carefully right in front of the tree, and then up in the tree.

Orthodox Jewish girls enjoying the waterfall--clothes and all.

Masada is always inspiring.  We got to see the huge cistern which is so impressive--big enough for several full-sized tour buses to fit inside!  And Herod’s North Palace is always amazing.  

The snake trail down from the top!

Then on to Ein Bokek at the Dead Sea.  The students went wild in the water, floating and reading books.  We and the Barkers sat in our chairs like old folks, watching the young ‘uns.  A great day in such an interesting country.

Started the day by watching the students play soccer on the field by "Crash Corner" (a very busy intersection near us with no stop signs or traffic lights--use your imagination!).  Lively, aggressive players, very fun.  Some fast runners; lots of bonks on the head.  Ouch.  

We rehearsed for and performed the Upper Room (Last Supper) program with the triclinium.  The students sang well, and it was a beautiful program.  

When we got home, they were setting up the strobe lights and a big Christmas tree outside for Thursday’s big tree lighting. Tawfic Alawi, associate director at the Center, is a Palestinian Christian and this is his personal project to show all of Jerusalem that we are Christians.  

Thursday evening, the Center was packed with mostly neighbors from East Jerusalem (so Arab friends), families of the staff who work here (mostly Arabic), but many others as well.  Charley Davis played a very impressive Santa; and there was antiphonal carol singing by our students from both ends of the Gallery. The entire company went down to the terrace around 7:15, where Tawfic gave a speech welcoming and thanking everyone.  Santa gave a countdown, at which time the tree went ablaze with lights, fireworks shot into the air, there was a full moon, an Arabic bagpipe and drum corps played Christmas carols, the students sang from the balcony, a laser light show lit up the terrace, and everyone was dancing and singing. And don’t forget the fog machine.  They had told us it would be big, but this was beyond big—it was spectacular.  Many also stopped for their pictures in front of the classic Mini Cooper which was parked on the lawn in front of the Center.  Over the top?  Yes, but what a way to share with our neighbors in East Jerusalem.  The sight from the Old City and the rest of Jerusalem must have been impressive!

The Gallery was decorated to the hilt, thanks to Deanne and the other service couples!

The Christmas concert on Friday and Saturday nights went very well!  Jim accompanied every number but two, and it was a lot of playing!  Deanne led all the choir music. A good program—"a glorious triumph" if we do say so ourselves. 

Ryan Nord singing "Mary, Did You Know?"

Eric Huntsman singing "O Holy Night"

A full house!

lights, camera, action!

"Silent Night" in 16 languages

Some of the girls in the choir!

Azure, Lydia, Emily, Emma, Lucy, Erika, Lindsay, Rachel, Tessa, Kela, Essie, Sarah

An exhausting, yet very fun week! The students leave for home on Wednesday. 

Boo hoo. 

And another lovely sunset from Masada!