JULY 8, 2022

Toward the end of the week, Jim and I took the short bus ride to the Old City. The bus stop is right out the back gate of the Center. Bus 275, which drops you off near the Damascus Gate. On arrival, we walked east through an open-air market (aren’t they all?) and found the Garden Tomb. I was there once in 1994 and do NOT remember that location being right in the middle of a bustling metropolis…. It is now! The back of the garden area backs up to the busy bus station we just left. As we arrived, we joined a very colorfully dressed group of “pilgrims” from Nigeria. It was a beautiful sight.

 

  

The Garden Tomb was a very peaceful and calm place. And despite knowing or not knowing if it was THE sight of the burial and resurrection, there was a definite spiritual component to the sight. I’m so glad we found it.

Then we ventured into the Old City to see if we could navigate getting to the Jewish Quarter and the Western Wall. Jim had the map—so tourist—but we still need it at this point. We sauntered down the old streets that were jam-packed with locals going to shops, restaurants, and markets. Occasionally a motorcycle or car comes down the narrow streets. How is that allowed? There are young soldiers posted at various points in the city. YOUNG kids with machine guns! We found the Jewish Quarter easily but had to go through security to get in. We spent time at the Western Wall appreciating the orthodox people in prayer. Amazing to watch their dedication. We would love to have seen the Temple Mount and Dome of the Rock, but it is off limits during prayer time. We'll go another time.

We found our way back toward the Damascus Gate and decided to stop for a falafel dinner at Basti Restaurant. It was very good! A Brazilian crew was filming a Biblical documentary right in front of us as we ate.

 

Back to Bus 275 and the Center. We did it! Jim found that the reclining chairs in the apartment are really comfy. It took about one minute for him to be fast asleep!! All in a day’s work.

The next morning, we walked (3.1 miles round-trip) to the Garden of Gethsemane, the Church of All Nations, the Tomb of the Virgin Mary, and the Mount of Olives. Gethsemane, again, was not how I remembered it.  The grounds are beautifully kept. You can’t wander among the huge olive trees anymore, but you can walk around the perimeter. The thought of what took place there is still overwhelming.

Jim's mother's favorite sculpture.

We met up with Sami, a taxi driver. EVERYONE asks if we are Mormons. We do stand out. Sami lives on the Mount of Olives and once worked for the BYU Center. He quickly showed us a photo of Pres. Nelson and Elder Holland from five years ago. He gave us a free ride to the top of the Mount of Olives to Rami’s Mount of Olives Bazaar. It is, by far, the nicest olive wood and souvenir shop I’ve seen thus far. "For you everything is 50% off--but today only!" 

On the walk home, we stopped at a local food market. There we met Abraham the Palestinian butcher. He was so kind. We told him we wanted ground beef and he began to cut off a piece of regular beef and put it in a grinder with seasoning, parsley, and onion AND a little fat. He said it wouldn’t taste good otherwise. I guess we’ll find out! 

Across the street from Abraham's store is what is called the “Arab Costco," four or five shops that sell bulk items. Good to know what’s there.  I must admit that all the markets look the same to me now. All the same items. Prices are about the same too. It depends on how far you want to travel to get food.