August 12, 2022

The Upper Room program turned out so well. They had set up a tableau with a triclinium, low tables on the floor in U shape.  Eric Huntsman described how a typical meal might have been served then; Christ second from the front on the left, John on his right, Judas on his left (he would have passed the sop to him).  We had scriptural readings; sang hymns (Deanne directed all the music); a nice octet had learned Nygard’s “God So Loved the World”; Eric Huntsman sang “In My Father’s House are Many Mansions”; William Pratt played organ for the hymns.  Jim played Dale Wood's “Beautiful Savior,” Bach’s “Herzlich tut mich verlangen,” and John Longhurst’s “Third Mode Melody.”  It was a fine event, even if it did have to be put together in a minimum of time. The students were asked to leave the event in silence.

We went to the YMCA for the final carillon visit of this semester.  We had a very lively bunch of students who all wanted to try out the carillon.  Brandon Buckner is the ring leader of fun in this bunch!  

Then we went to Yad Vashem, the holocaust museum.  Totally different from the last time we were there years ago.  Very large, first-rate exhibits starting with all of the politics of Germany in the 1930s, but discussed the whole situation in countries across Europe, including Greece, Northern Africa, etc.  Very compelling and informative without being horrific, even though the subject matter is horrific. 

Holocaust Museum

The students had guided walks, following in the footsteps of Jesus’s final week.  We started in Bethany for a visit to Lazarus’s Tomb.  Although Bethany is only a short walk from Jerusalem, it is now separated by a wall similar to the Berlin Wall.  We had to drive 30 minutes to get to Bethany, and then drive back to Jerusalem to continue the visit at the church in Bethphage, the traditional place where Jesus mounted a donkey for his triumphal entry into Jerusalem. Next was the Church of the Pater Noster, on the Mount of Olives, where Jesus taught his disciples about the destruction of Jerusalem.  The Lord’s Prayer is displayed here in beautiful tile panels in over 132 languages.  Next, the Church of Dominus Flevit, where “the Lord wept.” We went up to Mt. Zion for a visit to the Cenacle, or the traditional place of the Last Supper.  Then the walk down the hillside, outside the city walls, through the Kidron Valley, passing the tombs of Absalom, Zechariah, and the sons of Hezir, arriving at the beautiful Garden of Gethsemane where we had a wonderful devotional led by Eric Huntsman and some of the students. There is so much to take in here—historically, spiritually, archaeologically. 

Church in Bethphage

Pater Noster

We finished the guided walks tracing Jesus’s final steps.  We started at the Orson Hyde Park for devotional and discussion of Jesus's betrayal, then left the Mount of Olives for St. Peter in Gallicantu, the traditional location of Jesus’s imprisonment and Peter’s triple denial at the house of Caiaphas the high priest. It was a long, hot walk up that hill outside the city walls, and we tried to imagine what a painful trek that would have been. We saw an ancient stairway, and if this was Caiaphas’s house, Jesus may have walked on these steps.  We circled around the city walls, passing Jaffa Gate, and found the place on the highest spot of the western hill of Jerusalem, the site of Herod’s palace.  Pilate might have used this palace as his headquarters, so it may have been here that they brought Jesus for his trial.  On the outside of the wall is a “hidden gate,” now blocked off. It likely had a stairway leading down and outside of the wall.  Is this where Pilate said “Behold, the man!”?  We held a fine private devotional here and sang the Passion chorale, “O Savior, Thou Who Wearest a Crown.” We continued on to Damascus Gate and through a lane to the Garden Tomb. There is a view over what may have been Golgotha, the Place of the Skull.  But then we saw the empty tomb and had our final devotional. We sang two Easter hymns and enjoyed the gardens.  It was an emotional time for everyone, not only because of being in that garden, but it was the final event for this semester’s students, and what a wonderful way to end this pilgrimage for them. They clearly have bonded with each other (and we with quite a few of them). 

Church of St. Peter in Gallicantu

Garden Tomb

Paul and Patty Barker

Joseph, Cambree, William, and Carina

On Wednesday, students were rushing around packing.  At 8:30 pm we helped the Earnshaws with the room checks.  That was pretty wild—some students hadn’t even started packing.  But we got things cleaned out, keys turned in, etc.  Their planes didn't leave until 4 a.m. and 7 a.m., so they had to kill time until midnight (or 2:30 a.m.) for the airport bus.  We waved them off at midnight.  Everyone very high-spirited and emotional.  

With the Barkers, we visited the Monastery of St. Mary Magdalene, the fantastic Russian orthodox church with its seven onion domes just above the Garden of Gethsemane.  It’s only open for visitors a few hours a week, so you have to plan carefully.  It is set back in a beautiful hillside garden, surrounded by trees, with wonderful views of the Old City.  It was built in 1885 by Tsar Alexander III.  The nuns who take care of the grounds are very strict about the rules—no shorts, for instance. 

Deanne went with Earnshaws and Barkers to a fancy street mall on Ben Yehuda, and they browsed at an art faire and had fresh bagels for lunch. 

Jim went to explore on his own. He made a solo visit to the Church of Notre Dame de France, a beautiful complex across from New Gate.  It has a fascinating museum about the Shroud of Turin, a hotel, a 360-degree views from the roof, and a chapel (on an upper floor) with an organ built in the late 19^th century by Wilson of Durham, England. He met with Fr. Cristobal Vilarroig, a Spanish priest who welcomed him and said he could play the organ whenever he wanted to.  After enjoying that organ, he had lunch at a falafel shop near Damascus Gate.  Ten shekels (about $3) for heaven in a pita. Jim then explored that Arab neighborhood with its colorful markets.  Every little corner of Jerusalem has something amazing to offer.   

Just another great week in Jerusalem!!

 August 5, 2022

Patty joined us on a morning walk.  Our plan to go to Hebrew University was foiled—closed on Fridays (and Saturdays).  We ended up going to Augusta Victoria and into the Lutheran Church of the Ascension.  The young man at the door, when Jim told him he was an organist, pretty much handed him the keys to the organ. He probably shouldn’t have done that, but Jim loved playing the 1910 Sauer organ, with its rich foundations, 5-6 seconds of reverb, and electric key action.  Very different from the Marcussen organ that Jim plays at the Center.  We had nachos for lunch, plus beans, rice, pico, guacamole, etc.--not bad at all. The Palestinian chef at the Center works very hard to accommodate all tastes!

 

Details everywhere. Loved the lamb kissing the shepherd.

We headed to the YMCA carillon again. Before the recital, we toured the King David Hotel lobby (where Biden stayed on his recent visit).  Rich and famous people!  $$$. Eighteen students and some parents showed up at the carillon! Afterwards we went to the infamous Jimmy’s Bazaar where he treated us (and many other BYU students) to pita and hummus. But no olive wood purchases this trip. 

 

 

Biden and Trump signatures!

 

The prettiest floral arrangements everywhere

Beautiful Hillary Wheeler Taylor visited on the Sabbath with her family. Jim did end up speaking this week--even with 6 speakers on the program. He talked about his big three blessings (gospel, career, marriage) and how they had come to him in unexpected ways.  He loves talking to a single adult crowd.  They seemed to enjoy it.  They looked up Jim's Ensign article while he was speaking.    

            

That afternoon, Jim went with the student group to Orson Hyde garden for consecration of olive oil that previous semester groups had pressed here at the Center.

The first in-person concert in 2-1/2 years took place Sunday evening. Deanne arranged for all the student ushers and gave them assignments (reminds her of Creche hosting!).  We met at 6:30 for a run-through. The concert was at 8:00 pm, and very successful.  Almost a full house.  Jim introduced Jim Kearl (BYU Director of the Center) who gave Neomi Weinstein flowers and thanked her for her work in presenting over 1000 concerts in all her years.  Neomi was the musical director here for 20 years and just retired during Covid. The chamber players played Mendelssohn's Trio in D minor, and Fauré's Quartet Piano Quartet in C minor.  Everyone was pleased.  

  

Jim joined the students one day to visit Qumran, where the Dead Sea Scrolls were found; the oasis at Ein Gedi; Masada, which is one of the most impressive sites in all of Israel; and the Dead Sea.  It was 107 degrees at the Dead Sea, and the water was like a hot tub.  Jim has floated in the Dead Sea on other trips, so he gave it a pass this time.

While Jim was travelling with the students, Deanne went with the service couples to the Tomb of the Prophets where Haggai, Zechariah, and Malachi are buried, according to tradition. We had a gracious Palestinian guide who lives on the premises and truly loves to tell the stories of the tomb. Afterwards, the Earnshaws surprised us with a side excursion to the local pita factory! What a treat. No appointment needed. Just walk into the kitchen and watch the production. The reward--a steaming HOT fresh pita. Ammunition Hill, the site of one of the fiercest battles of the Six-Day War, was our third stop. It's always sobering to visit places where there has been war and contention. Sadly, most places here remain troubled. The second treat for the day was pizza! Although not the best pizza (I'd give anything for a slice of Pizz'a Chicago right now!), it wasn't bad at all. 

 Tour by candlelight

        

 So much pita!

                            Pizza at Ramot Eshkol

We've been working with director Eric Huntsman and the students on the Upper Room event this week. It is a program recalling the Last Supper with scripture reading and music. A lot of thought has been put into the program and, finally, we are making music with the students!

We had a loud celebration including fireworks in the neighborhood just outside our patio. It was the Islamic New Year (Al-Hijra) on July 30. They celebrate big here. The next morning there were more fireworks even though, in the daylight, you really can't see them!

More carillon time. These students are the best.  Several took a turn playing the carillon. No lack of confidence here. One student said he only knew how to play Mary Had a Little Lamb. Well--he did it on the carillon! Jim joined him for the second time to jazz it up a bit so we had "Concert Variations on Mary had a Little Lamb." Afterwards, of course, we had the obligatory YMCA pose!

                                          

Moon over Jerusalem

Our morning walk (3.5 miles) took us to the Orson Hyde Memorial Park to Gethsemane, then the Church of All Nations. Straight up the hill is the Dominus Flevit Church (Latin for “The Lord Wept”). In Luke 19:42 we read of how Jesus entered Jerusalem on the first Palm Sunday and stood on the Mount of Olives where he wept as he looked out. The view from the altar window is of the Dome of the Rock (Islamic house of worship) which is an interesting juxtaposition.  The road upward passes the huge Jewish cemetery on the Mt. of Olives. Finally at the top of the mount, you have a panoramic view of the Old City and you can take a camel ride if you like! We didn't.

We met with the directors of the Center this week to work on the script used in the introductory video shown to tour groups. They are eager to update the video and asked our input. WE are eager to get the tours going. In the interim, we will use the existing video and hopefully start tours soon.

Many times we think about the impressive place we are living. We both have been here before but it all looks different than we remember. What a treat to be here and really be able to visit (often!) the significant places right in our midst.