September 30, 2022

Jim met the Farrells (our Branch President and family) and their friends from Jerusalem, Canada, and the Netherlands at the YMCA carillon.  They were very excited about it all.  They invited Jim to lunch afterwards. He also got to ride their E-bike to First Station (formerly the train station, now a park with entertainment and food booths, but no trains).  They had a wonderful, friendly time together. 

The students had a field trip to Jericho that Jim joined in on--you really get the feeling of going “down” to Jericho, which is 850 feet below sea level.  The first stop was the Good Samaritan Inn, halfway between Jerusalem and Jericho, a rest stop for King Herod.  It has some beautiful mosaics from Samaria.  They had a devotional there on the parable of the Good Samaritan.  

Aaron Hart

Bethany Israelsen

Then to a lookout over Wadi Qelt (the setting for the parable of the Good Samaritan) and St. George’s Monastery, from the 6^th century AD.  Elijah is said to have stayed here.  This desolate and forbidding area is not far from the Mount of Temptation, and they had a devotional on the temptations of Christ and were given a chance to meditate for a few minutes on that.  

Eric Huntsman

The lone and dreary world!

Sam, the Security Man for the JC, always accompanies us when we go to the West Bank. St. George's Monastery in the background.

Next was a stop at the traditional baptismal site of Jesus at the Jordan River.  This is an international border, between Israel and Jordan, and there were soldiers with guns at the site (not uncommon).  But interesting to see the Israeli flag on one bank and the Jordanian on the opposite side.  There’s not much flow in the Jordan River because it is mostly siphoned off for irrigation in the area, but everyone got to dip a foot or a hand in the river and hear another devotional on the meaning of baptism (not just forgiveness of sins but the making of a covenant).  

Israel sideJordan side

Hisham’s Palace (8^th century) was an exciting stop—especially to see the extensive mosaic floors and baths. Amazing to think how they managed water in the desert. Some people must have lived pretty well.  Well, some…  Then to the old part of Jericho itself.  There are excavations of parts of the city walls—some pre-dating Joshua, but some from his time.  And did the walls really need to come tumbling down completely, or only enough to make a ramp so the attacking forces to enter the city?  Archaeology tells us what we do know, but it doesn’t tell us everything—plenty still to be discovered.  

  Eric Huntsman

The famous Ein Sultan spring in Jericho has been flowing for thousands of years, making it arguably the oldest continually inhabited city in the world.  

A quick break at the “Temptation” Tourist Center, where you can buy a little lemonade (for $5) or sit on a camel ($10).  For some reason they missed the traditional Zacchaeus tree, a sycamore that the rich publican Zacchaeus climbed so he could see Jesus.  Unlikely that sycamores live for 2,000 years, but it's a nice tradition.  

Camel with a fez

It got really hot in the afternoon (probably 100), but they hiked through dust and past a date palm orchard to the excavations of Herod’s winter palaces.  Again hard to imagine the original opulence with large swimming pools and lush gardens.  This was Herod’s “St. George” winter get-away, much warmer in winter than Jerusalem.  

The walls of Jericho

Roman rock work at Herod's winter palace

Date palm orchard near Herod's winter palace

Then back up to Jerusalem, no issues getting through the checkpoints.  We learned more about Rosh Hashana (Jewish New Year) in a forum led by Eric Huntsman.  Shana Tova!  This is high season for Jewish holidays. Yom Kippur is next week and they actually block the roads so no traffic enters the Jewish parts of town. Sukkot is the following week.

We had four large tours on Wednesday and again on Thursday, all big groups of Israeli tourists from the center of the country, and only a few of them spoke English.  But they enjoy the video, and they really love the organ concert.  A little Bach, and then the Handel Conquering Hero theme from his oratorio "Judas Maccabaeus"--always a hit.  Jim often plays a Sousa march as they exit. They love the spectacular view from the Terrace, but in the afternoon and with full sun, they start to wither pretty quickly. When their guide starts talking (and talking) about the history of Jerusalem, they turn to us with a look of "make him stop!" One tourist this week, while waiting for the tour to begin, fainted. Luckily one of the staff here grabbed him before he hit the marble floor. It could have been a serious injury. Deanne went over to assess and assist. Her first time to function as a nurse here!  Later in the day, a student came to Deanne as he had jammed his finger when he tripped and fell. (A bad day for accidents!) The medical doctor here has been attending to a student who is in the hospital so everyone is coming to Deanne in his absence!

Jim went on the famous underground tour of the Center and got to write his name on the wall downstairs.  Students have been doing this since around 2000. He saw several names of long-time and recent friends!

We went to the beautiful Seder dinner in the Oasis. The staff and students do this every semester (even when it isn't Passover).  Ophir Yarden, the Israeli teacher, led the evening.  It was lengthy but very enjoyable, with the famous symbolic bits of food, readings, songs, and quite a bit of levity.  We also got a big dinner (dynamite chicken and then salmon and rice pilaf).  The men were encouraged to wear the kippahs/caps.

Seder committee

Family update:

Jameson is now officially contracted with the Utah National Guard when he graduates in April. He and Erika recently found this darling Bernese Mountain puppy at a "puppy barn" in Vineyard.....It may be a puppy now but will grow to about 150 lbs. That's a lot of slobber :)  Sadly for them, they did not bring him (Marvin) home.  Maybe when they have their own home! 

Nicholas spent his day off traveling to Annapolis, Maryland, to visit the Naval Academy. It was a beautiful day to tour. He found his way to the chapel and was given permission to play the organ there (reading music on his laptop). Like father, like son.

 September 23, 2022

We met with Pres. Belknap of the Jerusalem District and he called Jim to be the District Membership Clerk.  Jim was very pleased with this (he told him he likes doing membership work).  President Belknap said it was inspiration.  Win-win! President Belknap stayed on for a Devotional in the Forum to discuss the BYU Jerusalem Center's non-proselytizing policies with all of the students. By agreement with the government, we do not proselytize in Israel. It is not illegal to proselytize in Israel, but for a variety of reasons our Church has committed not to proselytize.

This week, we had our biggest group yet at Sabbath with about 380 in attendance. The Center's population is about 125 so all the other attendees were visitors! Jim played big for the hymns.  "Rejoice, the Lord is King!"  It was a thrill to hear full-voiced singing in the Auditorium.

Carillon concerts continue with students and other guests joining in the fun. It is always a happy place to be. Most people have no idea how a carillon works. The view is wonderful from the top of the YMCA tower.

We took a side trip to Mt. Zion on the way home.  We parked up by Dormition Abbey and went to visit the Tomb of King David. It was smaller than we expected, but interesting—people reciting psalms at the tomb. We wandered around Mt. Zion a bit, went into the Last Supper Room, bought a toasted pecan and sesame treat, stumbled onto the original Holocaust Museum and Memorial (founded in 1949) and a Yeshiva, and even a dovecote with lots of doves cooing!  Always surprises. 

Room of the Last Supper

Vendor selling treats

Holocaust Memorial

There was another excellent concert Sunday evening, a piano concert by two young Arabic pianists from Jerusalem.  They played really hard stuff.  Their Russian teacher Emma Spitkowsky was there, very demanding of them. We enjoy having the students help with ushering at the concerts. With new ticket-scanning "guns," the students had fun with a few James Bond poses!

We watched the Queen’s funeral at Westminster Abbey.  So regal and colorful and tastefully done.  Wonderful hymns and choir singing, of course.  What an end to an era! 

Following the funeral, we and the Barkers drove over to Mamilla where we parked, and explored the north side of the Ramparts Walk (outer walls of the Old City)--from Jaffa Gate all the way around to Lions Gate.  Wonderful, different views of the inside and outside of the Old City.  Think of the people who have walked on these walls since the 1500’s….   We were blessed with some clouds in the sky and a consistent cooling breeze! Made Deanne very happy. We walked up the Via Dolorosa to Jaffa Gate and back to the car.  We picked up rotisserie chickens at our “Chicken Lickin’” place in Wadi al Joz and had a feast at our apartment with Barkers.

Chicken' Lickin'

The next day, we and the Barkers did the south end of the Ramparts Walk. (The ticket was good for two days!) We started at the Tower of David, past Zion Gate and the Jewish Quarter, and ending near Dung Gate.  Wonderful views and so many historic sites.  

 

Fig tree surviving through the Jerusalem limestone!

King David Hotel in the background

 

Dormition Abbey

Walking past Zion's Gate toward Dung Gate

We got gelato at our favorite ice cream place by Hurva Synagogue, then wandered through the Cardo and back to Jaffa Gate.  We especially enjoyed our stop at Omar’s store, a place we had never been in before.  So colorful! 

                        

Passed beautiful life-size mosaics in the Cardo. Many little shops today look just like this with their spices in pyramid shape. Also, women still sit by the side of the road and sell their produce. 

While the men stayed at the Center for tours, the women went off to Mamilla Mall for a morning of looking and shopping. We ended up in a little pizza restaurant right inside Jaffa Gate. It was delicious and fresh from the oven.

After lunch, we strolled up the alley and found SANTA. He opens up his home every December. He is lovingly referred to as the Ho-Ho-Holy Land Jerusalem Santa. He was greeting all passersby from his balcony.

We never know exactly who our tour groups at the Center will be, but they are always great to visit with.  Early in the week there was a  group of 4 fun Israelis.  Jim asked what brought them to the Center, and one guy said, “We know Mormons like Jews!” We actually like everyone equally well. They were very enthusiastic about the organ. In the afternoon there was a lively group of people from Qualcomm—4 Israelis, a lady lawyer from La Jolla, California, and a lady from London.  The next day, a group of six Brazilians from São Paulo arrived—quite by accident.  They were looking for a place on the Mount of Olives where they could get a good view and stopped at our guard station in front to ask if anyone knew where they could go.  The guard invited them in for the tour, of course!  When they said they were from Brazil and didn’t really speak English, Jim took off in Portuguese, and they had a ball together!  Jim always tries to tailor his “recital” for the visitors, so he played the Brazilian national anthem and “The Girl from Ipanema,” which he could play by ear.  They loved that!  Next, there was a group of about 20 men from the Israeli Ministry of Defense.  Very buff, very interested in everything, especially the organ.  (Men generally are full of questions about how the organ works and want to know all the mechanical details.)  Jim improvised a pedal solo on “Nava Hagila” for them.  Our last group of the week were some Latter-day Saints from the USA, surprisingly the first Christian group since we’ve opened for tours.  Jim played a number of hymns by request, but “The Holy City” left them literally in tears—looking out over the Old City as the sun began to set.  Six groups of tourists came on Friday.  Several LDS folks; a group of 20 Russian-speaking Israelis from northern Israel. Christian Devey, one of our students who was a missionary in Ukraine, come out to speak to them. This place is magical.

Our most memorable event this week, however, was a devotional in the Forum with Elder Jeffrey R. Holland and his wife Pat and Elder Matt Holland and his wife Paige.  They had been in the Center all week while the students were on a field trip in Jordan. Elder Holland was here on official business for the BYU Jerusalem Center. The students didn't learn of their presence here until their bus ride home from Jordan. Needless to say, they were quite excited. They quickly showered up, put on Sabbath best, and were seated in the forum in about 30 minutes after their arrival back to the Center.  Jim and I did the music: “Redeemer of Israel,” at Elder Holland’s request; then “There is a Green Hill Close at Hand” (the way we sing it here).  Both Elders Holland then gave masterful and inspiring addresses, fielded a few questions, and left us all in silence and awe. 

Fun street art

Family update:

Jameson has been in England and France this week with 18 ROTC cadets from BYU visiting WWII sites across both countries. He ended up in London on September 19th, the day of the Queen's funeral, and was able to see some of the procession. Of course, there was time for fun touring and eating great food. 

               

                               Notre Dame Cathedral

Omaha Beach, Normandy

Nicholas is enjoying his internship in Washington, DC. He attended a senate hearing for Senator Romney. I asked what he would do there. "Take notes." He also has started another internship as a China research assistant with the State Department's Bureau of Intelligence and Research. He has submitted all his applications for law school, for a fall 2023 start. It is a rolling admission, so now we wait and see!